Here is a small article which I wrote for the UKClimbing Destination Articles section but that they apparently aren’t interested in as I received no reply from them, how jolly grateful. And so, without bitterness, it is presented for the lucky few that manage to find it here:
Northern Norway is expensive, a surprisingly long way away and can have a lot of bad weather.
Kvaløya is one of the most incredible places I have climbed. Incredible rough granite that is vertical from the minute you step off the ground, and stays that way for pitch after pitch of rope stretching, unforgiving perfection. With almost no other people, incredible places to stay and a sun that never sets Kvaløya is a truly wondrous destination.
With many sport and single pitch trad routes around the island as well as giant north facing big walls there is even more to this island than you might imagine but the true highlight are the cliffs of Hollenderan. Baugen is a 300m face that is massive and impelling. The routes start at Norwegian 5+ (HVS 5a) on the slightly slabbier side and go the whole way up to 8 (E6 6b). While warming up on one of the moderate classics there, The Flygende Hollender 6 (“E1 5b”), the only conclusion we drew was that Kvaløya gradings are much more ‘proper’ than Lofoten grades. Be prepared and tape up!
Hopefully these photos will inspire you more than my words can to write off the cost of Norway as part of the experience and visit this unique place.
Logistics
When do I go?
We listed to the advice of the locals who state on the website that “the season lasts from early May to end of September for most climbers” we visited in June. We had 3.5 days sat in the hut watching constant snowfall and suffered cold wet feet from our inadequate footwear choices! Thus what I’m saying is this an unpredictable alpine environment. The later in the season you leave it the more chance you give a heavy years snowfall of melting which greatly reduces the approach logistics. The sea level crags are accessible in a much wider season.
How do I get there?
We flew to Tromsø on Norwegian Airlines via Oslo. Search for the best deal online well in advance. The Norwegian Airlines ticketing system is frustrating but they were easily the cheapest. Ferries from Newcastle are available to Bergen but this leaves you with some 20hrs drive North and the cost is very high.
Once in Tromsø you could hire a car, this would be very useful if you are planning on visiting more than one or two of the areas crags. Buses run from the main bus station just behind the airport to all the villages on Kvaløya but these appeared to be frustratingly infrequent for the most part. We managed to hitch very easily to the trail head and back to town and all the Norwegians that we met seemed extremely helpful and generous.
The approach to Hollenderan is, not to put it lightly, a torturous slog, especially while carrying 2 weeks food. One recommendation I must make is that you take the Grøtfjord approach instead of the one recommended in the guidebook. This is the route all the locals use and knowing this would have made our lives much easier.
Where do I stay?
Free camping is possible anywhere in Norway away from human habitation or cultivated land and the guidebook list excellent campsites near most of the sea-level crags. For Hollenderan there is a hut at the foot of the crags maintained by the Tromsø Klatreklubb. It is a beautiful hut in which you can expect to find gas,a hob and pans etc. for cooking, a wood burning stove with fuel, slippers for inside and a reasonable collection of books and magazines to pass bad weather days. It sleeps 8 very comfortably and many more during some summer weekends! There is a charge of 100NKr/night (approx £10) to cover the climbing clubs maintenance costs.
What gear should I bring?
On Baugen and Blåmann it is best to assume that you are climbing in an alpine environment and so bring whatever gear you would normally use for this. Comfortable all day shoes help reduce the crack discomforts as does generous taping. Doubles of cams in the fingers to hands range (0.4-2 Camalot) can help one reduce the fear on the long pitches though the locals did seem to be amused by the size of our rack! Good walking boots and trekking poles are enough to deal with any snow that you may find on the approaches which is generally pretty soft. An axe and crampons would definitely help instill confidence early season however.
Where can I buy gear and food?
There are a few large supermarkets right next to Tromsø airport which provide the ‘cheapest’ option for purchasing and are next to a handy hitching spot to take you to Kvaløya. Make sure to stock up as once you’re on the island it is a difficult hitch to return to Tromsø and the villages out there are very small.
It is possible to buy gear in Tromsø but don’t count on a great selection and best avoid it entirely lest you want to extend the mortgage on your return.
The guidebook
The only way to get hold of the guidebook at the moment is through this shop. It is excellently written and very clear. The Kvaløya Archives page also has more beta and information.